A diamond is…

00103391 18W Diamond Cluster Ring 2The concept of a diamond engagement ring, the glowing solitaire proudly displayed for friends and family to gasp over, is a relatively new one, in jewellery terms.

In fact, it’s probably one of the most successful marketing stories of all time.  Positively genius, we say would say.

A diamond is not a rare gemstone. The intrinsic value of a diamond doesn’t increase in time (unless it’s a super-rare carat weight or colour) Diamonds are not rare, they’ve not been rare gemstones since 1870, when vast diamond mines were discovered in South Africa.

It was however this very discovery that led to the decision to plant the concept of the emotional value of diamonds in the public conscious, encouraging us to overlook the financial one.

The money-men behind the diamond mining operations in South Africa needed to make two things happen.

First, they needed to control the flow of diamonds into the world markets, to maintain their financial value as a trade-able commodity. They did this by taking ownership and control of the world diamond trade, establishing De Beers Consolidated.  They stockpiled and strategically managed the flow of diamonds around the world – the perfect example of utilising the old ‘supply and demand’ model.

Christopher Evans-Single-Stone-Diamond-Spiral-Pendant-1 (2)However, to make this really work, they needed to both control supply and engineer demand for their product.

During this period the world was entering into a period of huge upheaval and war, significantly denting the demand for diamonds, especially in Europe.  As a result of the European crises, it was decided to focus on the American market and in 1938 De Beers appointed Philadelphia based advertising agency N W Ayer & Son.  Remember, this is all pre-Mad Men era, when advertising was still at a very basic standard.  What happened next was the start of something very clever indeed.

The agency knew that they needed make a diamond’s value something apart from its financial worth – and the emotional pull of love and marriage was where they aimed their energies.   They started by using celebrities in the media. They released stories to the press celebrity proposals with diamond rings and had fashion designers talk about the new diamond trend on radio shows. Dorothy Dignam, a publicist for De Beers at N.W. Ayer, said: “The big ones sell the little ones,” and they spent a lot of time detailing the size and cut of these ‘celebrity diamonds’ (some things don’t change!)

They built an entire story around the diamond itself, with no actual brand to connect it to.  It was all about the product, not at all about going to a specific place to buy this product.

In only four years diamond sales in America went up by 55%.

Diamond Infinity bracelet (2)However, their masterstroke came in 1948, when they came up with what has to be the best slogan of all time: ‘A diamond is forever.’

This slogan crystallised the whole aim of De Beer’s marketing: a diamond – like your marriage – is forever.  Not only would this encourage engagement ring purchases, but make sure nobody then sold their diamonds and disrupt their monopoly!

Like we said: genius.

The 5 most fabulous diamonds in the world

Just because it’s big it doesn’t mean it’s the best, so here’s our list of what we believe to be the 5 most fabulous diamonds in the world today – as yet discovered, that is…

The Cullinan 1, or Great Star of Africa, diamond is set into the British Royal Sceptre

The Great Star of Africa

At 530.20 carats, the Cullinan I – or Great Star of Africa – diamond is the largest cut colourless diamond in the world. Pear shaped, with 74 facets, it is set in the British Royal Sceptre and kept in the Tower of London.   It was cut from the 3,106-carat Cullinan, the largest raw diamond ever found, discovered in South Africa in 1905.  Can you imagine?!

It was the largest cut diamond of any colour until 1985, when (in the same mine!) the Golden Jubilee Diamond was discovered, which when cut achieved 545.67 carats.  This incredible brown-orange diamond is now the largest cut diamond in the world, and is owned by the King of Thailand.

The Orlov DiamondThe Orlov

This colourless, or white, diamond may only be 190 carats, but it has a romantic history we find quite bewitching.  It’s unusual cut is also quite arresting.  Known as the ‘mogul cut’, it has been cut for size, with multiple facets and scant regard for symmetry or brilliance.  This is the oldest form of cutting, before globally recognised shapes such as Princess, Cushion or Emerald.

Its history is a little myterious: it is rumoured to have been set into the statue of Vishnu in the Hindu temple at Srinagar, before being stolen in the seventeenth century by a French soldier.  He sold the stone to an Englishman in Madras and it eventually arrived in Amsterdam, where it was bought by the Russian Count Orlov and presented to Empress Catherine the Great.  She had it set in her Sceptre.  When Napoleon invaded Russia in 1812, the Russians hid the diamond in a priest’s tomb (rather than just taking it with them, obviously) and allegedly Napoleon learned of its location and went to retrieve it.  Once there, he was met by the ghost of the priest and promptly turned tail and ran – for the first time, but not the last, in Russia!  Later research has shown that in fact Orlov did not purchase the diamond himself, but was simply the front man for Catherine.  The Empress had a bit of a passion for diamonds, and REALLY wanted this stone, but knew it would cause a scandal at court should she be seen to be buying it -and there was quite enough scandal surrounding this lady already!  Again, the Orlov is cut in the old style, to maximise the size, giving it a flat bottom, known as a rose cut today.

The Spirit of Grosogono is a black diamond of exceptional quality and size.The Spirit of de Grosogono

This incredible stone is the world’s largest cut black diamond and the world’s fifth largest diamond overall. Starting at an uncut weight of 587 carats (117.4 g), it was discovered in western Central African Republic and cut by Swiss jeweller De Grisogono.

The resulting mogul-cut diamond weighs 312.24 carats and is set in a white gold ring with 702 smaller white diamonds totalling 36.69 carats.

The Koh-i-Noor Diamond is set into the Queen Mother's CrownKoh-i-Noor

The Koh-i-Noor (meaning Mountain of Light) comes in at 105.60 Carats and is an oval cut gem, now set in the Crown of Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother in the centre of the front cross.  It has a history dating back to 1304 and, as you can imagine, has had a very exciting life.  Legend says it may have been set in the famous Peacock Throne made for Moghul Emperor Shah Jehan, before travelling to Afghanistan with a bodyguard of Nadir Shah, who fled with the stone when the Shah was murdered (rather an occupational hazard) and was later offered to Ranjit Singh of the Punjab in exchange for military help (which was never delivered).   After fighting broke out between the Sikhs and the British, The East India Company took the diamond in reparations and presented it to Queen Victoria in 1850.  A snatch and run in any other name…

Richard Burton bought the Taylor Burton diamond for his wife Elizabeth TayllorThe Taylor-Burton

At just 68 carats this is the smallest diamond on our list, but is one that cannot be ignored.

It became famous when Richard Burton paid £1.1m dollars for it in 1969.  He initially lost the stone to Cartier, after setting a limit of £1,000,000 when it went to auction.  Upon learning of the loss, he went into a rage and insisted that his lawyer buy the diamond from Cartier, whatever it cost.  Afterwards he said: “I was going to get that diamond if it cost me my life or 2 million dollars whichever was the greater.” and: “I wanted that diamond because it is incomparably lovely…and it should be on the loveliest woman in the world. I would have had a fit if it went to Jackie Kennedy or Sophia Loren or Mrs. Huntingdon Misfit of Dallas, Texas”.

Now, that’s exactly the kind of passion a diamond should inspire, don’t you agree?

The birthstone for April is the diamond

White diamondThe birthstone for April is the diamond.  Diamonds are crystal – the ultimate example of symmetry in nature.  In their natural form, diamonds are actually pretty unimpressive, but when cut and polished by skilled craftsmen in a pattern that reflects and refracts the light among its facets to reveal the hidden beauty of the stone, they are irresistible.

The ancient Romans and Greeks placed the diamond at the centre of their mythology, not least in their belief that diamonds were the tears of the gods, or splinters of stars that had fallen to earth.  The ancient Romans believed that Cupid’s arrows were tipped with diamonds – possibly the earliest linking of diamonds to romance.

The Hindus, who were known to use diamonds in the eyes of their statues, believed that diamonds were created when bolts of lightning struck rocks and in Persian culture there exists a myth that God had no need for diamonds, gold, or any other precious metals or gems when he created the world. Satan, however spotted that Eve loved the brightly coloured flowers in the Garden of Eden and so it was he who created gemstones, in the same hues as our favourite blooms, to tempt humans.  He did a great job – who isn’t drawn towards the fire and ice, rich hues and sparkle of a beautiful white diamond!

As time moved on diamonds became associated with steadfast, enduring love, probably due to their unmatched strength and bewitching beauty – and unsurprisingly has become the classic choice for an engagement ring.

The first recorded diamond engagement ring was given by Archduke Maximillian of Austria in 1477, to Mary of Burgundy. This sparked a trend for diamond rings among European aristocracy and nobility.

Victorian Posey RingThe sentimental Victorians popularised ornate engagement ring designs that mixed diamonds with other gemstones, precious metals and enamels.  Often these rings were crafted in the shapes of flowers and were dubbed “posey rings.” Diamond rings crafted during the Edwardian era continued the tradition of pairing diamonds with other jewels, commonly mounted in filigree settings.

Diamonds were far beyond the reach of anyone but the very rich until the discovery of African diamond mines in the 1870s, run solely by the De Beers Company.  In 1947, De Beers launched its now classic slogan, ‘A Diamond is Forever’ which worked brilliantly.  A diamond’s strength, purity and sparkle have now become symbols of commitment in virtually all corners of the world.