Garnet: birthstone for Capricorns

tsavorite garnet Another original design by Christopher EvansMy sister was born in January and the birthstone for Capricorns is the garnet.  The first time I heard of the gemstone garnet was when I asked my grandmother if her engagement ring had a ruby in it.

“No, love,” she replied. “It’s just a garnet.”

From then on, I thought of garnets as being not much more than a poor man’s ruby – but oh how wrong I was!

The name ‘garnet’ is not one single gemstone, but actually describes a collection of several closely related minerals.  They come in a variety of colours, of which of course the best known is red.  When you hear a gemstone described as a garnet, this is usually referring to the red variety.  Other coloured garnets gemstones are given their own names, to help differentiate between them.

antique earrings in Bohemian garnet styleRed garnets come from the Almandine and Pyrope forms of garnet.  Even though Almandine is the most common garnet, it is usually opaque and really not fit for use in jewellery.  It is the, less common, transparent dark red forms of Almandine that are used as gemstones. A rose-red to violet variety of Pyrope is known as Rhodolite, and is a choice often made by jewellers seeking stones with rich colour and reflectivity to create pretty pieces.

 

Spessartite is an orange to orange-red form of Garnet, which has recently seen an increase in popularity, as people recognise the beauty and worth of coloured gemstones.  Grossular, the form of Garnet that has the greatest range of colours, has the important gem variety of glorious green Tsavorite.

Millennia ago, red garnets were used in the jewellery of Egypt’s Pharaohs and many have been found among the effects of those ancient Egyptian’s wealthy and important enough to be mummified and so pass into the afterlife with all their worldly goods intact.

A Bohemian style garnet ringCenturies later, red garnets were among the most widely traded gems. In the Middle Ages red garnet was favoured by both the clergy and the nobility.  In around 1500 a massive deposit of red garnet was discovered in Bohemia, a Kingdom which was later absorbed into the Czech Republic.

This discovery led to an explosion of goldsmiths and jewellers in the area specialising in a form of jewellery known as Bohemian garnet, where stones are packed closely together to create a dazzle of texture and pattern – a style which has as much charm today as it ever has, when designed by the right person.

The garnet is, of course, the birthstone for January and the gemstone associated with the second wedding anniversary.  For those who believe in the power of crystals, garnet is the one you need if you want to achieve a balance in your life, harness your inner strength and feel safe and protected.

Animal inspired jewellery

Bee pendant, designed by Christopher Evans.  Here in yellow gold with white gold wings, suspended on a white gold chain.Birds, beasts and butterflies: going back to the earliest days, animal inspired jewellery has been adored by men and women across the globe.

Since man started using his talents to create art, from the earliest rock and cave paintings to the most modern of art and design, he has been inspired by the animal form. This desire to recreate the animal kingdom as art is one the jewellery designer and goldsmith knows well, from the jaw-dropping works of the ancient Egyptians, through to the world famous designs created by Cartier for Wallace Simpson through to commissions received at our own store, it seems animals and precious gems make the perfect artistic match.

The scarab amulets found in the tomb of TutankhamenDating back millennia, animal inspired jewellery as would have been worn at the court of Cleopatra still has the power to take our breath away.   Of course, in ancient Egypt animals represented a great deal more than they do today; the scarab beetle for example was the symbol of re-birth, and every Egyptian would ensure that they were buried with a scarab to help them move through the afterlife to rebirth.

Animals, including crocodiles, cats, falcons and more, played a big part in the mythology and religion of ancient Egypt. Some animals were associated with or seen as sacred to the gods and the creation of jewellery or precious objects for the home, or to dedicate to the temples, would have filled the hours of many goldsmiths along the banks of the Nile.

As we move into modern times, rather than our jewellery selections being influenced by our religious beliefs, we have accepted our inspiration from Mother Nature – after all, when you look at the sheer variety of birds and beasts in the world it’s clear who’s the design guru here.

Insects, unsurprisingly, have been one of the greatest sources of jewellery inspiration across the years.  Whether it’s faithfully copying their iridescence and colours in precious metals and gems, or using these creatures as a mere platform from which to create something wholly fantastical, butterflies, bees, dragonflies and even moths have provided endless inspiration.  Indeed, our very own bees, crafted in silver or gold, have proven quite the joy for many happy customers.

Sapphire and diamond Elephant Hawk Moth bespoke jewelled necklaceOne of our clients raised her own Elephant Hawk Moths as a child, this beautiful creature is a symphony in purple and olive, so when she asked us to make her a necklace to celebrate it, we chose a dazzle of white diamonds and green and violet sapphires set into 18k white gold.

Marchak, Parisian jewellery house, butterfly set with a multitude of precious gemsParisian jewellery house Marchak has taken a different approach, using coloured gems to create a fantasy butterfly we’d all love to claim as our own.

 

 

 

Graff's Peacock BroochAnother continuing source of inspiration has been birds.  Birds of Paradise, the peacock…there are so many already stunning birds in the world it seems that no jewellery designer need ever dream up his or her own.  This one (left,) from Graff, revealed to an adoring crowd in 2013 at The European Fine Arts Fair, is said to be the most expensive brooch made in recent times.

 

18k yellow gold phoenix set with diamonds, red garnets and blue sapphireHaving said that, we rather like this startlingly beautiful Phoenix (right), a fantasy in diamonds and sapphires again, created for our moth loving client.  Once this lady developed a taste for bespoke jewellery, there was no stopping her – or her imagination!

 

 

It would be both rude and remiss of us, while we take a look at animal inspired jewellery through the ages, not to mention the cat and in particular the jewelled cats created for Wallace Simpson by Cartier.  Panthers Wallace Simpson panther bracelet by Cartierand tigers, as bracelets, brooches and clips, formed a significant part of the collection she built over the years with the man who adored her enough to sacrifice his throne.  Made to order by Cartier, they became a symbol of both the wearer and the creator, who didn’t limit their inspiration to a single client.

 

Barbara Hutton tiger brooch made by Cartier in 1957

 

Less well known, but equally stunning, is this fabulous tiger brooch made for Woolworth’s heiress Barbara Hutton in 1957.  In 18k yellow gold, set with brilliant-cut yellow diamonds, onyx, white diamonds and with emerald-set eyes, in 2015 it sold at auction for over £450,000.

Miaow!

As you can see: if you can dream it, it can be done.