How to choose the right engagement ring

ruby and diamond haloYou have found the person you want to spend the rest of your life with…so now it’s time to seal the deal (or put a ring on it, as the song says).  But just how do you choose the right engagement ring?

We suggest that you start with the basics.  Ask your partner what she would like.  Oh no, does that take the romance out of it?! No going down on bended knee and offering a carefully chosen solitaire diamond engagement ring in a velvet box?  Not at all.  There are lots of ways to make sure the occasion is both romantic as heck, AND you choose the right engagement ring!

Get observant

What style jewellery does she like to wear?  What metal colour does she wear most often? What’s her fashion style – super on trend, or vintage elegance?

Get sneaky

Ask her mother, or a trusted friend, what she’s said about engagement rings. Stick to the basics – yellow or white gold or platinum?  A solitaire, a cluster or a coloured stone?

Get clever

If you’re really not sure and don’t want to risk her politely sticking with the ring you chose, but secretly wishing you’d checked first, then buy a single sparkling stone and present that, with a promise that now she can design her own ring – making it as unique as your love.

Once you’ve decided on the main stone for the ring, then you need to get a little technical.  Here’s what you should consider when wondering how you choose the right engagement ring,

1. Understand the 4Cs

oval diamond cluster ringThe four C’s, when it comes to diamonds, refer to the way that precious gems are graded and valued on an internationally recognised scale.  The 4Cs combine to generate a market value for the stone that will be essentially the same anywhere in the world.

C – Colour. In a ‘white’ diamond, the ‘colour’ refers in fact to a lack of colour.  The most sough-after white diamonds are those with no degree of colour at all.  When you’re considering coloured stones, each has its own most prized shade, which affects it value.

C – Cut.  The way a stone is cut depends on the skill of the diamond cutter, who will assess a raw gemstone and devise the best way to maximise its value by choosing a cut that unleashes its sparkle to the best effect.

C – Clarity.  How clear is the stone? Flaws, blemishes and inclusions all affect the value of a stone.

C – Carat weight.  This is the weight of the stone, which of course determines its apparent size.

Once you understand how these all work together, you can choose which C is most important to you and use this in your decision making.  A huge diamond with poor clarity isn’t worth as much as a smaller stone with great clarity.  An emerald however will have lots of inclusions, but as they’re so rare, these have a lesser effect on their value than a poor colour will have.  You can find a fabulous diamond of good size and a sparkling cut, but a tinge of yellow knocks the value back.  Iffor you big is beautiful, this is a great way to get some serious bang for your buck!

Padparadscha sapphire set in a diamond halo2. Choose your gemstone.

While diamonds are the preferred choice for most brides, there are an increasing number of ladies opting for something a little more unusual. Coloured stones such as the big four – blue sapphire, green emerald, red ruby and pink or yellow diamond – or even more unusual gemstones such as Padparadscha sapphires, blue or jacinth zircons, pink or violet sapphires, peachy morganite or green gold peridot are finding their way onto engagement rings from LA to London, and even here in Cheshire (well, we are seriously stylish, are we not?)  It’s a trend we wrote about last month, here.

3. Understand that Cut and Shape are not the same thing.

Diamonds come in a variety of shapes – round, square, rectangle, heart, pear and marquise – which is identified when you look at the stone from the top.  However, the ‘cut’ refers to how the diamond’s facets are arranged to maximise its sparkle.  For example, you will discover that most round diamonds are cut in the ‘brilliant’ style, which is a specific arrangement of 57 or 58 facets.  However, you can also have square or rectangle diamonds cut in this style, which is then known as radiant cut.  It’s confusing, we know! To further complicate, you can have a square or rectabgle diamond cut in the ‘emerald’ style too, which has four longer facets to the sides and bevelled corners.  Huh?!  Don’t worry, we can show you examples and let you choose which you love best!

Ruby ring with diamond cluster4. Choose your preferred metal.

The type of metal you choose for your ring’s band will, of course, affect the overall look of the piece.  In recent years, white gold and platinum have proven popular, for a contemporary look.  They are also a good choice for those diamonds of the best colour – or colourless – quality.  Yellow gold is great for very clear diamonds, but if you’ve chosen a stone that is a little yellow (but otherwise ticks every box) the risk is that the yellow of the gold will make the diamond more visibly yellow.

Of course, you can choose a yellow gold band and have the setting made in white gold.  We recently set a fabulous golden amber zircon into rose gold prongs to highlight its warm tones, while mounting the whole on a white gold band.  Gorgeous!

5. Choose the setting.

Your jeweller should recommend a setting when he’s creating the design for you, as it will have a major impact on the finished piece, but here’s a quick overview.

Prongs: four to six metal supports that hold the stone in place.  The most traditional setting for a solitaire.

Brushed over (or bezel): when a thin metal strip is pushed over around the edge of the gemstone to hold it in place.  This offers excellent protection for the stone and looks tremendous on big and bold beauties.

Halo: a ring of tiny diamonds encircling the centre stone.  A halo can add more sparkle to the engagement ring (reducing the need for a large centre stone) and in fact makes the centre stone look bigger.

6. Do you want side stones?

Side stones can be a dazzling way to finish off an engagement ring.  Diamond baguettes (long, narrow stones) set into the shoulders of the ring can look incredibly sophisticated and if you choose a coloured gemstone, such as a pink sapphire or red ruby, really help throw the light around.

7. Set your budget

You might think we should have put this first, but actually, once you’ve had a good chat with your chosen jeweller and established what design you want, then you can set the budget for him to work to and let him go off and do his research, sourcing stones and finalising a 3D design for you to look at.  This means you both know there won’t be any unexpected surprises coming when he does present the designs and you won’t feel pushed into a corner on price.

A good jeweller will take you through each of these steps whether you are buying a ring ready-made, or choosing to have one made especially for you.   If you find a jeweller that seems a bit vague, or not really keen on taking you through all the influencing factors in this way – walk away.  It’s your ring, a symbol of a commitment to a lifetime of togetherness and nothing, and nobody, should lessen the experience of finding that absolutely perfect one for you.

Five diamond myths we want to put right

Five diamond mythsOf all the gemstones there are, the diamond is probably the one we all bring to mind when thinking of precious gems, so it’s no surprise that over the years certain diamond myths have grown up around them, which we’re going to put right here. 

Diamond myth 1. Bigger diamonds are always better

No no no!  It’s a common held belief that a bigger diamond has a higher value than a small one, but as diamonds are valued on a combination of four separate attributes – Cut, Colour, Clarity and Carat Weight – this simply isn’t the case.

A small, perfectly clear diamond with the perfect cut to enhance its sparkle will hold greater value than a large, yet less clear stone with some inclusions and a poor cut.

When choosing the diamond you want for your engagement ring, make sure you go through the various options with your goldsmith.  He or she will be able to help you find the perfect balance of the Four C’s to match up to the fifth – ‘Cost’ and help you attain the ring of your dreams.

White emerald cut diamond engagement ringDiamond myth 2.  A solitaire must have a round brilliant cut diamond

Nope!  Okay, so the vast majority of engagement rings are actually set with a round brilliant cut diamond.  But there are plenty of other shapes to choose from and you may find that you pay less for a different cut with the same carat weight, enabling you to add additional stones to the shoulders, perhaps.

One of our favourite cuts is the emerald cut, which for us is so redolent of the golden age of art deco (think Gatsby, cocktails and pure hedonism) that we can’t resist creating ring designs to reflect the era using all kinds of gorgeous gemstones.

We’re also very proud to announce that here at Christopher Evans is one of the few places you can find the incredible Premier Diamond, a sparkling new variation of the classic round brilliant-cut but with 82 facets that create so much life and fire that each one will take your breath away.

Diamond myth 3. Diamonds can’t break

Yes, diamonds are the hardest gemstone on earth and yes they are impervious to almost all acids and yes they can withstand higher temperatures than most precious gems (after all, they are created by extreme heat and pressure over millennia) but no, they are not unbreakable.

Diamonds are simply a particular formation of carbon atoms in crystal form.  Within the molecular arrangement of these carbon atoms, there are planes where the atoms on either side are more tightly bonded than the atoms in the plane – making it the weakest spot in the stone.  Diamond cutters split, or cleave, diamonds by giving them a sharp tap in the right place.  They know how to split a diamond along its cleavage plane, using this knowledge to create the cut they believe is best for that particular stone.  If you accidently hit your diamond along one of these cleavage planes, it can chip or fracture.

Certain diamond cuts are more vulnerable than others, such as the princess cut, with its pointed corners.  We always suggest that when storing diamond jewellery, our customers keep them in separate pouches as of course one diamond can scratch or even chip another.

A diamond is...

Diamond myth 4.  A diamond engagement ring should cost three months’ salary.

Seriously?! Actually this myth is a bit of a moveable feast, you might say, as the commitment varies dramatically.  Some say a chap should spend three months’ salary, some say two months and some say one.  We say don’t listen to anybody else, do what your heart and head advise.  After all, marriage isn’t about the ring, it’s about the commitment.

The roots of this myth lie in a De Beers marketing campaign, the same people who came up with the tagline, A Diamond Is Forever.   It came about during the 1930’s, in America, at the height of the Depression – a disastrous time for De Beers.  Their marketing campaign linked diamonds with engagement rings and actually suggested that the man should spend one month’s salary on the purchase.  By the 1980’s they had increased this to two month’s salary.  One campaign showed a beautiful woman wearing a solitaire diamond ring with the text: ‘Two months’ salary showed the future Mrs. Smith what the future would be like.’  Another, with only a diamond ring on a black background said: ‘How can you make two months’ salary last forever?’

Oval diamond halo clusterInterestingly in the UK, the De Beers campaign remained at promoting just a single month’s pay as appropriate for engagement ring spend (we sensible Brits would NEVER have fallen for doubling that, surely!?) whereas in Japan De Beers increased it to three months’ salary.  Today Japan remains one of the leading markets for diamond jewellery, a sea change from before De Beers did their thing, when diamond rings were simply unheard of before WW2.

 

Diamond myth 5. I can get a better deal on my diamond by not buying retail.

You might think that you can get a better deal on your stone by buying from an online auction, from a wholesaler or direct from the dealer and in the basics of that you might be right, but there is an increased risk involved.

Our advice is to choose a trusted retailer who isn’t going anywhere, whose reputation is of vital importance to them and who offers protection on your purchase you simply won’t find with one of the other options.

As well as providing quality guarantees and an internationally recognised grading report from the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) or IGI (international Gemological Institute) a jeweller’s expertise is invaluable in helping you choose the right diamond (see Diamond Myth 1.) and the right setting for it. 

diamond engagement ringan original diamond ring design by Christopher EvansEmerald cut diamond with purple sapphire shoulders

By choosing Christopher Evans you can be assured that you have chosen a team who really, really know their stuff.  From working with precious gems every day to intensive training courses to the design and making of simply stunning jewellery, we are undisputed experts in our field.  Why would you trust your heart and purse to anything less?

A New York proposal with a bespoke diamond engagement ring

Matt & Lauren with the bespoke diamond engagement ringWe love happy endings and hear about more than a few, and here’s one we’d like to share with you.

Customer Matthew Heathcoat wanted to propose to girlfriend Lauren, and wanted to do it in style, with a bespoke diamond engagement ring designed using everything he knew about the likes and dislikes of the woman he loves.

‘I wanted to have a ring made bespoke because it’s really just so much more personal,’ Matt told us. ‘All the time and thought that goes into it makes it really special and unique and I knew that Lauren would appreciate the extra effort that had gone into it.

‘I chose Christopher Evans because having been a customer before, just for small things like watch batteries and straps, I knew their levels of customer service were superb.

‘I work in the design industry myself, in architectural design, so I really enjoyed the opportunity to get involved in this.  I was involved in every step, from initial discussions about what I wanted to the first sketches, which are then converted to CAD 3D images, and even to the diamond selection.  I learned so much from the designer Nicky, who walked me through every step and really looked after me.

‘I had a budget and was quite prepared to spend more than I would on just choosing a ready-made ring, but actually when you’re going bespoke you can manage your budget as you choose everything from the stones to the setting.  You can see how much work goes into it all and you get to keep the sketches and final designs, which is a lovely keepsake.

‘I would recommend it to everyone.  You know exactly what you’re getting and develop a relationship with real experts you know you can trust.’

A New York ProposalMatt hadn’t just planned to surprise Lauren with a ring made to his own requirements, he planned to take her by surprise with a New York proposal too.

‘Lauren had no idea I was planning to propose,’ he says. ‘We flew to New York right after Christmas and on New Year’s Eve we went for breakfast and then a walk through Central Park.  It was a beautiful crisp winter’s morning and we headed for Bow Bridge, a well-known beauty spot in the Park.  There is a secluded bench nearby, from where you can see the bridge spanning the lake.’

Matt did the full down on bended knee, 100% romantic, proposal and Lauren said yes.  The wedding is planned for next year, but before then they will be calling into Christopher Evans to start the design process on their wedding bands.

‘Lauren loved the ring,’ says Matt. ‘In fact, unbeknown to me, she’d found a picture of a ring she liked about 18 months earlier and had downloaded it to her phone.  It’s remarkably similar to the one I designed for her, so I did well!

‘We’re definitely going back to have the wedding bands designed – and together this time!’

Wedding ring rash or itchy skin?

Wedding Ring Rash DermatitisEngagement ring…wedding ring….suffering?  Have you developed a rash around your wedding ring that’s itchy and uncomfortable?  Wedding ring rash (also known as wedding ring dermatitis) is most common in married women, but in fact anyone wearing any ring for prolonged periods of time can develop an allergic skin reaction.

Quite often we see ladies here who are experiencing skin irritation under their engagement, wedding or eternity rings and want to know what might be causing it.

In the past, we would look at the type of metal and check for nickel content, as this often caused allergic reactions in wearers, but now that nickel no longer forms a part of most jewellery metal alloys, we’ve discovered that the ring design itself is often the culprit.

Often gemstones are set into rings leaving small holes beneath, the theory being that this enhances the sparkle of your precious gem by allowing the light to travel through – this isn’t actually the case however.  Many rings are so constructed because it means they are lighter in weight and so cost less.  However, the small holes allow soap and debris to build up inside and this can often lead to mild, or very occasionally, severe dermatitis.  Itchy, scaly, red and swollen skin is no fun, so what to do?

Bring your ring to us and we can work to solve your problem.  We an re-make your ring so that there is no longer any opportunity for detergent or dirt to build up and cause the reaction in future.  We can check for nickel content and if necessary replace the metal with new, nickel-free, metal too.

It’s a quick and simple process and we can leave you with a ring that looks the same as the one you originally chose, but no longer has the elements that are most likely to cause irritation.

Call either of our stores for an appointment or simply pop in!  We look forward to meeting you.